Build your own audio-cable?

[Vitnir]

Instead of buying overpriced cables for the home stereo-set I was thinking of making my own. So if anyone know what are the qualities you look for in cables such as between CD-player and amplifier? I read in a audio-magazine that this cable was decent. Link (http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/setpage.pl?http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/dyndok.pl?dok=2021604.htm).
Opinions?

[scotth]

That appears that it would be a good video cable maybe.... but not really designed for audio.

That is a 93 ohm cable. For audio, you want as close to zero impedance as is practical.

I like this cable quite well.
http://www.kimber.com/Products/Interconnects/Hero/Hero_Spec.aspx

Note the total impedence at 20kHz is 0.051 ohm.

Also, those cables have excelent quality connectors (I use the RCA type). They are gold plated to resist corrosion and the barrel of the connector is threaded in such as way as to effective lock the connector to the jack. Provides a very solid and reliable connect.

Engineering wise, the perfect interconnect would have exactly zero impedance and be completely impervious to externally induces currents.

This cable comes close enough to those "ideal" goals that you shouldn't be able to hear any degradation over it.

[epepke]

Originally posted by Vitnir
Instead of buying overpriced cables for the home stereo-set I was thinking of making my own. So if anyone know what are the qualities you look for in cables such as between CD-player and amplifier? I read in a audio-magazine that this cable was decent. Link (http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/setpage.pl?http://www.elfa.se/elfa-bin/dyndok.pl?dok=2021604.htm).
Opinions?

That looks a lot like shielded video cable. You don't need that. It's too expensive and too stiff. Just get some ordinary shielded cable and some cheap plugs. Learn how to solder, then solder it. It will work fine. After a couple of years, the signal may get crackly. Just rotate the plugs a bit until it rubs the oxide off, and it will work fine again.

Audio is at such a low frequency that it really doesn't matter what quality cable you get, so long as it's shielded. With the signal from a CD player, you might even be able to get by with zip cord, but the shielded cable is easier to solder.

The only time you have to worry much is if you have an old-fashioned turntable, which has a low voltage output. In that case, any old cable that's shielded will probably do as well.

[Walter Wayne]

Originally posted by scotth
That appears that it would be a good video cable maybe.... but not really designed for audio.

That is a 93 ohm cable. For audio, you want as close to zero impedance as is practical.

I like this cable quite well.
http://www.kimber.com/Products/Interconnects/Hero/Hero_Spec.aspx

Note the total impedence at 20kHz is 0.051 ohm.

The 93 ohm's refers to the characteristic impedance of the cable, the ratio between the voltage and current waves along the transmission line, not the loss of the cable. The cable you linked to appears to be about 70 ohm characteristic impedance

The cable in the first link looks good, but as epepke mentioned it is probably over-kill (specified to 500 MHz).

You could probably find something cheaper.

Walt

[shecky]

Instead of overpriced cables, I've used cheaper generic pre-made cables to great success. Much less hassle than rolling your own, and quite possibly more durable if your soldering skills aren't so hot.

;)

[Vitnir]

I wouldnt say its an expensive cable, about 2$ per meter and though my soldering skills arent impressive this is simple stuff. It would mostly be for the fun-factor and to get even on the cheap clerk in the shop where I bought my player who refused to throw in cables for free. The company in my link sells "completed" cables (gold plated, double shielded) also for a price that is close to what the parts cost but if those candy-string cables that come with every stereo-component i bought during the years are just as good there is no point at all I guess.

[Art Vandelay]

You also want to make sure that all the parts have the same phase offset, so what would be the best cable depends on the CD-player and the amplifier.

[Vitnir]

Well I went and bought the parts and put it together despite the dire warnings ;) (The company has a store in my town) It's good enough for me, I doubt I would be able to tell the difference between "good" and "bad" cables and I cant be botherd to do a blind test since I'm not sure I got any cables everyone can agree on that are "good" unless the ones I got from Profigold (http://www.profigold.com) counts.

[epepke]

Originally posted by Vitnir
I wouldnt say its an expensive cable, about 2$ per meter and though my soldering skills arent impressive this is simple stuff. It would mostly be for the fun-factor and to get even on the cheap clerk in the shop where I bought my player who refused to throw in cables for free. The company in my link sells "completed" cables (gold plated, double shielded) also for a price that is close to what the parts cost but if those candy-string cables that come with every stereo-component i bought during the years are just as good there is no point at all I guess.

The problem is, though, that's it's stiff. Assuming you're using RCA plugs, these aren't designed for wire that is stiff like that. It's better to get shielded cable where the center wire isn't solid. You should be able to get cable like this at a cost of about $6 per 30 meters. Otherwise, there's always stress on that solder connection, and the conductor tends to separate.

[Kopji]

So comeon, I'm on the edge of my seat wondering what the final cost was.

Humm... Audio magazine, soldering iron, solder, wire, connectors, travel time, gas, cutters, and 4 RCA connectors.

The assembled cables are about $2 over at the local video rental place...

[Vitnir]

Well I bought some perhaps unnecessarily expensive plugs but I liked the look and feel of them, they cost 23,7$ while the cable itself cost 3,5$ or 191 total in SEK. Prices might wary between countries but you can't buy a fancy cable in a audiophile store for 191 SEK in Sweden. Other expenses doesnt apply since I had soldering equipment already, I dont use my car inside city limits etc.