How can I safely rig this window AC thermostat?

OnlyTellsTruths · 19th May 2012, 01:01 AM

We have a few window AC units that we use to zone cool during certain months. None of them are digital.

Most of them, when turned to maximum cool, will turn on if the temperature gets much above 70 F or so.

I'm having a problem with one of them. It doesn't seem to want to turn on until the temp gets above 80 F or so (again, even when set to max cool).

It has a thermometer that looks like the bottom one in this picture (possibly coincidentally, the other ACs that work fine have one more like the top one...):

If I touch the little ball on the end with my fingers the AC will kick on after a few seconds. I assume because of the warmth of my fingers.

Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature?

Cheap, easy, and safe, please!

Brian-M · 19th May 2012, 02:05 AM

Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths

Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature?

Cheap, easy, and safe, please!

It'd be easier to just replace the thermostat. They work because the gas/air inside the hollow metal expands due to heat, activating a pressure switch inside the body of the thermostat. Some of the gas may have leaked out of this one, making it require higher temperatures to activate the pressure switch.

You might be able to kludge it by partially crushing the ball or part of the tube near the ball with a pair of pliers to reduce the size of the cavity (increasing the pressure). But you could easily destroy the thermostat in the attempt.

OnlyTellsTruths · 19th May 2012, 02:34 AM

Thanks for the info Brian-M. Good stuff.

Your first suggestion, while probably the best, I can guarantee wouldn't be easy for me, even if it is cheap.

OTOH, crushing the little ball at the end just a bit with a pair of pliers sounds both cheap and easy!

I'll wait a day or so before trying anything to see if anyone else comes up with any ideas.

quarky · 19th May 2012, 06:07 AM

I think that unit is trying to save you money.

Beerina · 19th May 2012, 06:58 AM

Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths

We have a few window AC units that we use to zone cool during certain months. None of them are digital.

Most of them, when turned to maximum cool, will turn on if the temperature gets much above 70 F or so.

I'm having a problem with one of them. It doesn't seem to want to turn on until the temp gets above 80 F or so (again, even when set to max cool).

It has a thermometer that looks like the bottom one in this picture (possibly coincidentally, the other ACs that work fine have one more like the top one...):

If I touch the little ball on the end with my fingers the AC will kick on after a few seconds. I assume because of the warmth of my fingers.

Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature?

Cheap, easy, and safe, please!

Not sure how it's supposed to work, but from the picture it looks like the coil is touching itself. If that's what's supposed to change shape with temperature, it will be of reduced effectiveness because mechanically, the first part coming out of the box is keeping the second loop, which is snug against it, from bending inward.

Olowkow · 19th May 2012, 07:12 AM

If you have the exact part number, it is relatively simple to replace. Some of these have a calibration screw, which applies a bias onto the diaphragm, and may solve the problem.

Pulvinar · 19th May 2012, 07:28 AM

Originally Posted by Beerina

Not sure how it's supposed to work, but from the picture it looks like the coil is touching itself. If that's what's supposed to change shape with temperature, it will be of reduced effectiveness because mechanically, the first part coming out of the box is keeping the second loop, which is snug against it, from bending inward.

The picture is just how they come in the box. The tube is to be unrolled and formed into the shape of the old one. See Brian-M's description.

mhaze · 19th May 2012, 10:48 AM

Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths

We have a few window AC units that we use to zone cool during certain months. None of them are digital.

Most of them, when turned to maximum cool, will turn on if the temperature gets much above 70 F or so.

I'm having a problem with one of them. It doesn't seem to want to turn on until the temp gets above 80 F or so (again, even when set to max cool).

It has a thermometer that looks like the bottom one in this picture (possibly coincidentally, the other ACs that work fine have one more like the top one...):

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9474/capillary.jpg

If I touch the little ball on the end with my fingers the AC will kick on after a few seconds. I assume because of the warmth of my fingers.

Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature?

Cheap, easy, and safe, please!

what you want to do is reposition the thermostat sensor to a colder area. It may be in a position on the coil which is blocked by debris, simply in the wrong position, or hanging loose. You can move it and glue it down with silicon.

Olowkow · 19th May 2012, 12:56 PM

The cold air shuts the compressor off. The OP's problem is that the compressor will not turn on at the maximum setting. This means that the thermostat bulb must be heated in order to trigger the compressor. You could place a small desk lamp, high intensity type, to shine on the area of the thermostat. Actually, there are devices sold which are made to bias a furnace thermostat.* A small heater that mounts below the thermostat.

ETA: * For example, if you want to keep a seldom used room warmed to just 40 degrees F, in order to keep pipes from freezing. This device will permit control at a setting lower than indicated on the dial of the thermostat.

quarky · 19th May 2012, 07:28 PM

Originally Posted by Olowkow

The cold air shuts the compressor off. The OP's problem is that the compressor will not turn on at the maximum setting. This means that the thermostat bulb must be heated in order to trigger the compressor. You could place a small desk lamp, high intensity type, to shine on the area of the thermostat. Actually, there are devices sold which are made to bias a furnace thermostat.* A small heater that mounts below the thermostat.

ETA: * For example, if you want to keep a seldom used room warmed to just 40 degrees F, in order to keep pipes from freezing. This device will permit control at a setting lower than indicated on the dial of the thermostat.

You're correct, but it seems a bit bizarre to need to supply a heat source to an a.c. unit, however small. perhaps locating the thermostat near the ceiling would do the trick?

OnlyTellsTruths · 20th May 2012, 12:11 AM

Originally Posted by quarky

You're correct, but it seems a bit bizarre to need to supply a heat source to an a.c. unit, however small. perhaps locating the thermostat near the ceiling would do the trick?

Yeah, my first idea was to wrap a heating pad around it.

I was hoping someone here might have said something like "tape a coin to the end of it" or "put a piece of chewing gun on it" or something MacGyver like.

I suppose Brian-M's suggestion in post #2 is the closest I am going to get to that....

Brian-M · 20th May 2012, 12:16 AM

Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths

Yeah, my first idea was to wrap a heating pad around it.

I was hoping someone here might have said something like "tape a coin to the end of it" or "put a piece of chewing gun on it" or something MacGyver like.

I suppose Brian-M's suggestion in post #2 is the closest I am going to get to that....

Attaching inert objects to it won't do much except add a delay in responding to changes in temperature by acting like an insulator.

Placing something warm near it will make it turn on at a lower temperature, but you might end up with it on all the time.

Only follow my suggestion if you're willing to risk destroying it. If you accidentally puncture the bulb or tube in the process, it won't work at all.

OnlyTellsTruths · 20th May 2012, 12:33 AM

Originally Posted by Brian-M

Only follow my suggestion if you're willing to risk destroying it. If you accidentally puncture the bulb or tube in the process, it won't work at all.

Yeah, OK. I understand that.

Originally Posted by Brian-M

Placing something warm near it will make it turn on at a lower temperature, but you might end up with it on all the time.

That reminds me. I am open to suggestions that would make it be on all the time. There will always be someone in the room when it is used. It would be shut off if it starts to freeze over.

Perhaps breaking the "tube" while the AC is running? Would that perhaps make it stay in ON mode?

Of course I would try your first suggestion before doing something drastic like that....

I'm going to give this another 24 hours before I try anything.

Andrew Wiggin · 20th May 2012, 12:40 AM

If you're open to it being on all the time except when switched off, then just take the thermostat out of the circuit and connect the wires that went to it together. Since you specify 'safely', I'll mention that you should unplug the AC first to avoid shock, and insulate the connection before plugging it back in.

OnlyTellsTruths · 20th May 2012, 01:29 AM

Originally Posted by Andrew Wiggin

If you're open to it being on all the time except when switched off, then just take the thermostat out of the circuit and connect the wires that went to it together. Since you specify 'safely', I'll mention that you should unplug the AC first to avoid shock, and insulate the connection before plugging it back in.

I assume that's an OK idea, but getting to the thermostat would require dismantling some of the unit. If I was going to do that I would probably just replace the thermostat.

I was more wondering if there were any very easy solutions.

Brian-M · 20th May 2012, 03:37 AM

Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths

That reminds me. I am open to suggestions that would make it be on all the time. There will always be someone in the room when it is used. It would be shut off if it starts to freeze over.

Perhaps breaking the "tube" while the AC is running? Would that perhaps make it stay in ON mode?

If the tube is broken, it'll be stuck in OFF mode.

But as Andrew said, all you need to do is join the wires connected to the the thermostat (after unplugging it from the power point). You don't even have to remove the thermostat (it might be a good idea to leave it in, if only to fill the hole). If they're the same model as shown in the picture, you might just be able to reach in and pull the wires off the thermostat without dismantling it too much, as they're only connected by spade lugs.

How you connect the wires is up to you. I'd cut the lugs off, strip some of the insulation off each wire, twist them together and use a BP connecter to finish it off.

(Or just replace the thermostat.)

mhaze · 20th May 2012, 05:24 AM

Originally Posted by mhaze

what you want to do is reposition the thermostat sensor to a colder area. It may be in a position on the coil which is blocked by debris, simply in the wrong position, or hanging loose. You can move it and glue it down with silicon.

As people noted, move it to a warmer, not a colder area. This is still easy to do - that's why the long wire is separating the bulb from the mechanism. So the bulb can be moved....

Andrew Wiggin · 20th May 2012, 07:16 AM

Originally Posted by Brian-M

If the tube is broken, it'll be stuck in OFF mode.

But as Andrew said, all you need to do is join the wires connected to the the thermostat (after unplugging it from the power point). You don't even have to remove the thermostat (it might be a good idea to leave it in, if only to fill the hole). If they're the same model as shown in the picture, you might just be able to reach in and pull the wires off the thermostat without dismantling it too much, as they're only connected by spade lugs.

How you connect the wires is up to you. I'd cut the lugs off, strip some of the insulation off each wire, twist them together and use a BP connecter to finish it off.

(Or just replace the thermostat.)

I'd either do this, or search through the junk drawer and find a jumper wire with a couple of spade lugs. Another thing I've done, when jumpering around a relay or such, is just move both lugs to the same terminal, on switches with multiple lugs per terminal. It doesn't look like the thermostats in the pictures have more than one lug per terminal though.

OnlyTellsTruths · 20th May 2012, 04:37 PM

Originally Posted by Brian-M

If the tube is broken, it'll be stuck in OFF mode.

So if the AC is ON, and I break the tube, would it instantly switch to OFF?

ETA: Because it would lose pressure as per your description from post #2?

Originally Posted by Brian-M

They work because the gas/air inside the hollow metal expands due to heat, activating a pressure switch inside the body of the thermostat. Some of the gas may have leaked out of this one, making it require higher temperatures to activate the pressure switch.

Brian-M · 20th May 2012, 05:17 PM

Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths

So if the AC is ON, and I break the tube, would it instantly switch to OFF?

ETA: Because it would lose pressure as per your description from post #2?

Probably. The air/gas would leak out the hole instead pushing against the pressure switch inside the body of the thermostat.

(Unless the pressure inside the tube is for some reason normally less than the air pressure outside the tube. But it'd be unlikely for them to build it that way.)

quarky · 20th May 2012, 06:56 PM

This is so cool.

Its mundane problems like this that accidentally force us to invent cold fusion reactors and stuff.

quarky · 20th May 2012, 07:19 PM

Oops.

Or decide that 80f is an easily bearable inside temp.

HighRiser · 20th May 2012, 08:47 PM

I don't think you're going to find a work-around other than jumping the leads, which will mean manual operation, and the risk of damage to the machine.

Replacing the switch is very likely not beyond the means of someone with basic mechanical skills. Unplug, remove front cover, pull knob, and I think you'll find the knob was hiding two screws holding the switch housing to the front case. The tubing might have a few zip-ties holding it in place. Two spade connectors for the wiring, snap a photo with your phone if you're concerned about not remembering which wire went where or how the tubing was routed.

Take old switch to your local appliance parts dealer along with the model number of the machine. Be careful not to damage the metal bulb and tube when you put it back together the way it was before you took it apart.

Just for general information, the working fluid in these types of thermostats is usually mineral oil or paraffin wax.

Brian-M · 20th May 2012, 08:52 PM

Originally Posted by HighRiser

Just for general information, the working fluid in these types of thermostats is usually mineral oil or paraffin wax.

I cut the tube on one once, and there wasn't any oil inside, it was just a hollow tube, so I'm assuming it was based on expanding gas. But I suppose different models could work differently.

HighRiser · 21st May 2012, 10:09 AM

That's interesting, Brian-M. Do you remember what it was out of?

Just out of curiosity, I looked through several catalogs this morning and didn't find any bulb thermostats that had gas as working fluid. All my catalogs are for HVAC or kitchen equipment, though, and not all the item specs have the working fluid listed.

phunk · 21st May 2012, 01:12 PM

Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths

We have a few window AC units that we use to zone cool during certain months. None of them are digital.

Most of them, when turned to maximum cool, will turn on if the temperature gets much above 70 F or so.

I'm having a problem with one of them. It doesn't seem to want to turn on until the temp gets above 80 F or so (again, even when set to max cool).

It has a thermometer that looks like the bottom one in this picture (possibly coincidentally, the other ACs that work fine have one more like the top one...):

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9474/capillary.jpg

If I touch the little ball on the end with my fingers the AC will kick on after a few seconds. I assume because of the warmth of my fingers.

Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature?

Cheap, easy, and safe, please!

Is the sensor touching any metal parts on the AC? Could be as simple as moving it slightly so it's reading air temp rather than the temp of the AC itself.

Brian-M · 21st May 2012, 06:50 PM

Originally Posted by HighRiser

That's interesting, Brian-M. Do you remember what it was out of?

Not really it was years ago. I think I pulled it out of a bin of spare bits and pieces taken out of broken machines. So it's possible it was broken and the fluid leaked out before tried it.

OnlyTellsTruths · 22nd May 2012, 02:51 AM

Originally Posted by phunk

Is the sensor touching any metal parts on the AC? Could be as simple as moving it slightly so it's reading air temp rather than the temp of the AC itself.

Yeah I knew to check that first. Thanks anyway.

I might try Brian-M's idea tomorrow. I'm trying to make sure I will be able to tell if it worked at all or not.

HighRiser · 22nd May 2012, 03:56 PM

Originally Posted by Brian-M

Not really it was years ago. I think I pulled it out of a bin of spare bits and pieces taken out of broken machines. So it's possible it was broken and the fluid leaked out before tried it.

That's entirely possible. Thanks, and sorry for the derail.

Bearded One · 22nd May 2012, 04:20 PM

I had that issue once but the thermostat had a little hole that you could put a small screwdriver into and adjust the bias, effectively changing the range. Look for a little hole on the thermostat.

quarky · 22nd May 2012, 09:01 PM

What if the screw is loose?

CORed · 23rd May 2012, 10:35 AM

Originally Posted by Brian-M

If the tube is broken, it'll be stuck in OFF mode.

But as Andrew said, all you need to do is join the wires connected to the the thermostat (after unplugging it from the power point). You don't even have to remove the thermostat (it might be a good idea to leave it in, if only to fill the hole). If they're the same model as shown in the picture, you might just be able to reach in and pull the wires off the thermostat without dismantling it too much, as they're only connected by spade lugs.

How you connect the wires is up to you. I'd cut the lugs off, strip some of the insulation off each wire, twist them together and use a BP connecter to finish it off.

(Or just replace the thermostat.)

There are lots of ways: wirenuts or crimp connectors will also work, or strip, twist together, solder, and insulate with heat shrink or electrical tape.

fuelair · 23rd May 2012, 10:48 AM

Originally Posted by Olowkow

The cold air shuts the compressor off. The OP's problem is that the compressor will not turn on at the maximum setting. This means that the thermostat bulb must be heated in order to trigger the compressor. You could place a small desk lamp, high intensity type, to shine on the area of the thermostat. Actually, there are devices sold which are made to bias a furnace thermostat.* A small heater that mounts below the thermostat.

ETA: * For example, if you want to keep a seldom used room warmed to just 40 degrees F, in order to keep pipes from freezing. This device will permit control at a setting lower than indicated on the dial of the thermostat.

THIS!! ^^^^^^^^^ I have often used this in rooms where the thermostat (in a place(or locked so)) could not be normally adjusted. Unfortunately it only works for lowering temps - raising them requires a more obvious set up - and a messier one.

19th May 2012, 01:01 AM	#1
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	How can I safely rig this window AC thermostat? We have a few window AC units that we use to zone cool during certain months. None of them are digital. Most of them, when turned to maximum cool, will turn on if the temperature gets much above 70 F or so. I'm having a problem with one of them. It doesn't seem to want to turn on until the temp gets above 80 F or so (again, even when set to max cool). It has a thermometer that looks like the bottom one in this picture (possibly coincidentally, the other ACs that work fine have one more like the top one...): If I touch the little ball on the end with my fingers the AC will kick on after a few seconds. I assume because of the warmth of my fingers. Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature? Cheap, easy, and safe, please!
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	__________________ ________________________

19th May 2012, 02:34 AM	#3
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	Thanks for the info Brian-M. Good stuff. Your first suggestion, while probably the best, I can guarantee wouldn't be easy for me, even if it is cheap. OTOH, crushing the little ball at the end just a bit with a pair of pliers sounds both cheap and easy! I'll wait a day or so before trying anything to see if anyone else comes up with any ideas.
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	__________________ ________________________

19th May 2012, 06:07 AM	#4
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454	I think that unit is trying to save you money.
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454

19th May 2012, 06:58 AM	#5
Beerina Sarcastic Conqueror of Notions Join Date: Mar 2004 Location: A floating island above the clouds Posts: 23,835	Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths We have a few window AC units that we use to zone cool during certain months. None of them are digital. Most of them, when turned to maximum cool, will turn on if the temperature gets much above 70 F or so. I'm having a problem with one of them. It doesn't seem to want to turn on until the temp gets above 80 F or so (again, even when set to max cool). It has a thermometer that looks like the bottom one in this picture (possibly coincidentally, the other ACs that work fine have one more like the top one...): If I touch the little ball on the end with my fingers the AC will kick on after a few seconds. I assume because of the warmth of my fingers. Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature? Cheap, easy, and safe, please! Not sure how it's supposed to work, but from the picture it looks like the coil is touching itself. If that's what's supposed to change shape with temperature, it will be of reduced effectiveness because mechanically, the first part coming out of the box is keeping the second loop, which is snug against it, from bending inward.
	__________________ "Great innovations should not be forced [by way of] slender majorities." - Thomas Jefferson The government should nationalize it! Socialized, single-payer video game development and sales *now!* More, cheaper, better games, right? Right?

19th May 2012, 07:12 AM	#6
Olowkow Illuminator Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 4,790	If you have the exact part number, it is relatively simple to replace. Some of these have a calibration screw, which applies a bias onto the diaphragm, and may solve the problem.
Olowkow Illuminator Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 4,790	__________________ Our remedies oft in ourselves do lie, which we ascribe to heaven. --Shakespeare

19th May 2012, 02:05 AM	#2
Brian-M Daydreamer Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Downunder Posts: 4,229	Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature? Cheap, easy, and safe, please! It'd be easier to just replace the thermostat. They work because the gas/air inside the hollow metal expands due to heat, activating a pressure switch inside the body of the thermostat. Some of the gas may have leaked out of this one, making it require higher temperatures to activate the pressure switch. You might be able to kludge it by partially crushing the ball or part of the tube near the ball with a pair of pliers to reduce the size of the cavity (increasing the pressure). But you could easily destroy the thermostat in the attempt.
	__________________ "That is just what you feel, that isn't reality." - hamelekim Last edited by Brian-M; 19th May 2012 at 02:08 AM.

19th May 2012, 07:28 AM	#7
Pulvinar Muse Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 815	Originally Posted by Beerina Not sure how it's supposed to work, but from the picture it looks like the coil is touching itself. If that's what's supposed to change shape with temperature, it will be of reduced effectiveness because mechanically, the first part coming out of the box is keeping the second loop, which is snug against it, from bending inward. The picture is just how they come in the box. The tube is to be unrolled and formed into the shape of the old one. See Brian-M's description.
Pulvinar Muse Join Date: Aug 2009 Posts: 815

19th May 2012, 10:48 AM	#8
mhaze Penultimate Amazing Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Woo*(+-1.10)^20=AGWwoo Posts: 15,384	Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths We have a few window AC units that we use to zone cool during certain months. None of them are digital. Most of them, when turned to maximum cool, will turn on if the temperature gets much above 70 F or so. I'm having a problem with one of them. It doesn't seem to want to turn on until the temp gets above 80 F or so (again, even when set to max cool). It has a thermometer that looks like the bottom one in this picture (possibly coincidentally, the other ACs that work fine have one more like the top one...): http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9474/capillary.jpg If I touch the little ball on the end with my fingers the AC will kick on after a few seconds. I assume because of the warmth of my fingers. Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature? Cheap, easy, and safe, please! what you want to do is reposition the thermostat sensor to a colder area. It may be in a position on the coil which is blocked by debris, simply in the wrong position, or hanging loose. You can move it and glue it down with silicon.
	__________________ Get your climate widget Climategate - History's Biggest Scam Poptech's List Climate Acronyms

19th May 2012, 12:56 PM	#9
Olowkow Illuminator Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 4,790	The cold air shuts the compressor off. The OP's problem is that the compressor will not turn on at the maximum setting. This means that the thermostat bulb must be heated in order to trigger the compressor. You could place a small desk lamp, high intensity type, to shine on the area of the thermostat. Actually, there are devices sold which are made to bias a furnace thermostat.* A small heater that mounts below the thermostat. ETA: * For example, if you want to keep a seldom used room warmed to just 40 degrees F, in order to keep pipes from freezing. This device will permit control at a setting lower than indicated on the dial of the thermostat.
Olowkow Illuminator Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 4,790	__________________ Our remedies oft in ourselves do lie, which we ascribe to heaven. --Shakespeare Last edited by Olowkow; 19th May 2012 at 01:00 PM.

19th May 2012, 07:28 PM	#10
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454	Originally Posted by Olowkow The cold air shuts the compressor off. The OP's problem is that the compressor will not turn on at the maximum setting. This means that the thermostat bulb must be heated in order to trigger the compressor. You could place a small desk lamp, high intensity type, to shine on the area of the thermostat. Actually, there are devices sold which are made to bias a furnace thermostat.* A small heater that mounts below the thermostat. ETA: * For example, if you want to keep a seldom used room warmed to just 40 degrees F, in order to keep pipes from freezing. This device will permit control at a setting lower than indicated on the dial of the thermostat. You're correct, but it seems a bit bizarre to need to supply a heat source to an a.c. unit, however small. perhaps locating the thermostat near the ceiling would do the trick?
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454

20th May 2012, 12:11 AM	#11
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	Originally Posted by quarky You're correct, but it seems a bit bizarre to need to supply a heat source to an a.c. unit, however small. perhaps locating the thermostat near the ceiling would do the trick? Yeah, my first idea was to wrap a heating pad around it. I was hoping someone here might have said something like "tape a coin to the end of it" or "put a piece of chewing gun on it" or something MacGyver like. I suppose Brian-M's suggestion in post #2 is the closest I am going to get to that....
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	__________________ ________________________

20th May 2012, 12:16 AM	#12
Brian-M Daydreamer Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Downunder Posts: 4,229	Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths Yeah, my first idea was to wrap a heating pad around it. I was hoping someone here might have said something like "tape a coin to the end of it" or "put a piece of chewing gun on it" or something MacGyver like. I suppose Brian-M's suggestion in post #2 is the closest I am going to get to that.... Attaching inert objects to it won't do much except add a delay in responding to changes in temperature by acting like an insulator. Placing something warm near it will make it turn on at a lower temperature, but you might end up with it on all the time. Only follow my suggestion if you're willing to risk destroying it. If you accidentally puncture the bulb or tube in the process, it won't work at all.
	__________________ "That is just what you feel, that isn't reality." - hamelekim

20th May 2012, 12:33 AM	#13
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	Originally Posted by Brian-M Only follow my suggestion if you're willing to risk destroying it. If you accidentally puncture the bulb or tube in the process, it won't work at all. Yeah, OK. I understand that. Originally Posted by Brian-M Placing something warm near it will make it turn on at a lower temperature, but you might end up with it on all the time. That reminds me. I am open to suggestions that would make it be on all the time. There will always be someone in the room when it is used. It would be shut off if it starts to freeze over. Perhaps breaking the "tube" while the AC is running? Would that perhaps make it stay in ON mode? Of course I would try your first suggestion before doing something drastic like that.... I'm going to give this another 24 hours before I try anything.
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	__________________ ________________________

20th May 2012, 12:40 AM	#14
Andrew Wiggin Master Poster Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: A small planet named for its dirt. You'll find it filed under 'mostly harmless' Posts: 2,914	If you're open to it being on all the time except when switched off, then just take the thermostat out of the circuit and connect the wires that went to it together. Since you specify 'safely', I'll mention that you should unplug the AC first to avoid shock, and insulate the connection before plugging it back in.
	__________________ "Everyone takes the limits of his own vision for the limits of the world." - Arthur Schopenhauer "New and stirring things are belittled because if they are not belittled, the humiliating question arises, 'Why then are you not taking part in them?' " - H. G. Wells

20th May 2012, 01:29 AM	#15
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	Originally Posted by Andrew Wiggin If you're open to it being on all the time except when switched off, then just take the thermostat out of the circuit and connect the wires that went to it together. Since you specify 'safely', I'll mention that you should unplug the AC first to avoid shock, and insulate the connection before plugging it back in. I assume that's an OK idea, but getting to the thermostat would require dismantling some of the unit. If I was going to do that I would probably just replace the thermostat. I was more wondering if there were any very easy solutions.
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	__________________ ________________________

20th May 2012, 03:37 AM	#16
Brian-M Daydreamer Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Downunder Posts: 4,229	Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths That reminds me. I am open to suggestions that would make it be on all the time. There will always be someone in the room when it is used. It would be shut off if it starts to freeze over. Perhaps breaking the "tube" while the AC is running? Would that perhaps make it stay in ON mode? If the tube is broken, it'll be stuck in OFF mode. But as Andrew said, all you need to do is join the wires connected to the the thermostat (after unplugging it from the power point). You don't even have to remove the thermostat (it might be a good idea to leave it in, if only to fill the hole). If they're the same model as shown in the picture, you might just be able to reach in and pull the wires off the thermostat without dismantling it too much, as they're only connected by spade lugs. How you connect the wires is up to you. I'd cut the lugs off, strip some of the insulation off each wire, twist them together and use a BP connecter to finish it off. (Or just replace the thermostat.)
	__________________ "That is just what you feel, that isn't reality." - hamelekim

20th May 2012, 05:24 AM	#17
mhaze Penultimate Amazing Join Date: Jan 2007 Location: Woo*(+-1.10)^20=AGWwoo Posts: 15,384	Originally Posted by mhaze what you want to do is reposition the thermostat sensor to a colder area. It may be in a position on the coil which is blocked by debris, simply in the wrong position, or hanging loose. You can move it and glue it down with silicon. As people noted, move it to a warmer, not a colder area. This is still easy to do - that's why the long wire is separating the bulb from the mechanism. So the bulb can be moved....
	__________________ Get your climate widget Climategate - History's Biggest Scam Poptech's List Climate Acronyms

20th May 2012, 07:16 AM	#18
Andrew Wiggin Master Poster Join Date: Aug 2009 Location: A small planet named for its dirt. You'll find it filed under 'mostly harmless' Posts: 2,914	Originally Posted by Brian-M If the tube is broken, it'll be stuck in OFF mode. But as Andrew said, all you need to do is join the wires connected to the the thermostat (after unplugging it from the power point). You don't even have to remove the thermostat (it might be a good idea to leave it in, if only to fill the hole). If they're the same model as shown in the picture, you might just be able to reach in and pull the wires off the thermostat without dismantling it too much, as they're only connected by spade lugs. How you connect the wires is up to you. I'd cut the lugs off, strip some of the insulation off each wire, twist them together and use a BP connecter to finish it off. (Or just replace the thermostat.) I'd either do this, or search through the junk drawer and find a jumper wire with a couple of spade lugs. Another thing I've done, when jumpering around a relay or such, is just move both lugs to the same terminal, on switches with multiple lugs per terminal. It doesn't look like the thermostats in the pictures have more than one lug per terminal though.
	__________________ "Everyone takes the limits of his own vision for the limits of the world." - Arthur Schopenhauer "New and stirring things are belittled because if they are not belittled, the humiliating question arises, 'Why then are you not taking part in them?' " - H. G. Wells

20th May 2012, 04:37 PM	#19
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	Originally Posted by Brian-M If the tube is broken, it'll be stuck in OFF mode. So if the AC is ON, and I break the tube, would it instantly switch to OFF? ETA: Because it would lose pressure as per your description from post #2? Originally Posted by Brian-M They work because the gas/air inside the hollow metal expands due to heat, activating a pressure switch inside the body of the thermostat. Some of the gas may have leaked out of this one, making it require higher temperatures to activate the pressure switch.
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	__________________ ________________________ Last edited by OnlyTellsTruths; 20th May 2012 at 04:38 PM.

20th May 2012, 05:17 PM	#20
Brian-M Daydreamer Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Downunder Posts: 4,229	Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths So if the AC is ON, and I break the tube, would it instantly switch to OFF? ETA: Because it would lose pressure as per your description from post #2? Probably. The air/gas would leak out the hole instead pushing against the pressure switch inside the body of the thermostat. (Unless the pressure inside the tube is for some reason normally less than the air pressure outside the tube. But it'd be unlikely for them to build it that way.)
	__________________ "That is just what you feel, that isn't reality." - hamelekim

20th May 2012, 06:56 PM	#21
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454	This is so cool. Its mundane problems like this that accidentally force us to invent cold fusion reactors and stuff.
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454

20th May 2012, 07:19 PM	#22
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454	Oops. Or decide that 80f is an easily bearable inside temp.
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454

20th May 2012, 08:47 PM	#23
HighRiser Critical Thinker Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: High above Indianapolis Posts: 339	I don't think you're going to find a work-around other than jumping the leads, which will mean manual operation, and the risk of damage to the machine. Replacing the switch is very likely not beyond the means of someone with basic mechanical skills. Unplug, remove front cover, pull knob, and I think you'll find the knob was hiding two screws holding the switch housing to the front case. The tubing might have a few zip-ties holding it in place. Two spade connectors for the wiring, snap a photo with your phone if you're concerned about not remembering which wire went where or how the tubing was routed. Take old switch to your local appliance parts dealer along with the model number of the machine. Be careful not to damage the metal bulb and tube when you put it back together the way it was before you took it apart. Just for general information, the working fluid in these types of thermostats is usually mineral oil or paraffin wax.
	__________________ So, let's denser than the denser it is easier and faster to go the less frequent the eternal things in his path happens to be on the front. -Pixie of key

20th May 2012, 08:52 PM	#24
Brian-M Daydreamer Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Downunder Posts: 4,229	Originally Posted by HighRiser Just for general information, the working fluid in these types of thermostats is usually mineral oil or paraffin wax. I cut the tube on one once, and there wasn't any oil inside, it was just a hollow tube, so I'm assuming it was based on expanding gas. But I suppose different models could work differently.
	__________________ "That is just what you feel, that isn't reality." - hamelekim

21st May 2012, 10:09 AM	#25
HighRiser Critical Thinker Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: High above Indianapolis Posts: 339	That's interesting, Brian-M. Do you remember what it was out of? Just out of curiosity, I looked through several catalogs this morning and didn't find any bulb thermostats that had gas as working fluid. All my catalogs are for HVAC or kitchen equipment, though, and not all the item specs have the working fluid listed.
	__________________ So, let's denser than the denser it is easier and faster to go the less frequent the eternal things in his path happens to be on the front. -Pixie of key

21st May 2012, 01:12 PM	#26
phunk Graduate Poster Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,908	Originally Posted by OnlyTellsTruths We have a few window AC units that we use to zone cool during certain months. None of them are digital. Most of them, when turned to maximum cool, will turn on if the temperature gets much above 70 F or so. I'm having a problem with one of them. It doesn't seem to want to turn on until the temp gets above 80 F or so (again, even when set to max cool). It has a thermometer that looks like the bottom one in this picture (possibly coincidentally, the other ACs that work fine have one more like the top one...): http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9474/capillary.jpg If I touch the little ball on the end with my fingers the AC will kick on after a few seconds. I assume because of the warmth of my fingers. Is there something I could wrap around (or put on) the little ball on the end that would make the AC turn on at a lower temperature? Cheap, easy, and safe, please! Is the sensor touching any metal parts on the AC? Could be as simple as moving it slightly so it's reading air temp rather than the temp of the AC itself.
phunk Graduate Poster Join Date: Aug 2007 Posts: 1,908

21st May 2012, 06:50 PM	#27
Brian-M Daydreamer Join Date: Jul 2008 Location: Downunder Posts: 4,229	Originally Posted by HighRiser That's interesting, Brian-M. Do you remember what it was out of? Not really it was years ago. I think I pulled it out of a bin of spare bits and pieces taken out of broken machines. So it's possible it was broken and the fluid leaked out before tried it.
	__________________ "That is just what you feel, that isn't reality." - hamelekim

22nd May 2012, 02:51 AM	#28
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	Originally Posted by phunk Is the sensor touching any metal parts on the AC? Could be as simple as moving it slightly so it's reading air temp rather than the temp of the AC itself. Yeah I knew to check that first. Thanks anyway. I might try Brian-M's idea tomorrow. I'm trying to make sure I will be able to tell if it worked at all or not.
OnlyTellsTruths Join Date: Sep 2007 Posts: 5,766	__________________ ________________________

22nd May 2012, 03:56 PM	#29
HighRiser Critical Thinker Join Date: Nov 2005 Location: High above Indianapolis Posts: 339	Originally Posted by Brian-M Not really it was years ago. I think I pulled it out of a bin of spare bits and pieces taken out of broken machines. So it's possible it was broken and the fluid leaked out before tried it. That's entirely possible. Thanks, and sorry for the derail.
	__________________ So, let's denser than the denser it is easier and faster to go the less frequent the eternal things in his path happens to be on the front. -Pixie of key

22nd May 2012, 04:20 PM	#30
Bearded One Student Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 34	I had that issue once but the thermostat had a little hole that you could put a small screwdriver into and adjust the bias, effectively changing the range. Look for a little hole on the thermostat.
Bearded One Student Join Date: Mar 2009 Posts: 34

22nd May 2012, 09:01 PM	#31
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454	What if the screw is loose?
quarky Banned Join Date: Oct 2007 Posts: 20,454

23rd May 2012, 10:35 AM	#32
CORed Illuminator Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 4,281	Originally Posted by Brian-M If the tube is broken, it'll be stuck in OFF mode. But as Andrew said, all you need to do is join the wires connected to the the thermostat (after unplugging it from the power point). You don't even have to remove the thermostat (it might be a good idea to leave it in, if only to fill the hole). If they're the same model as shown in the picture, you might just be able to reach in and pull the wires off the thermostat without dismantling it too much, as they're only connected by spade lugs. How you connect the wires is up to you. I'd cut the lugs off, strip some of the insulation off each wire, twist them together and use a BP connecter to finish it off. (Or just replace the thermostat.) There are lots of ways: wirenuts or crimp connectors will also work, or strip, twist together, solder, and insulate with heat shrink or electrical tape.
CORed Illuminator Join Date: Dec 2008 Posts: 4,281	Last edited by CORed; 23rd May 2012 at 10:39 AM.

23rd May 2012, 10:48 AM	#33
fuelair Cythraul Enfys Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 28,881	Originally Posted by Olowkow The cold air shuts the compressor off. The OP's problem is that the compressor will not turn on at the maximum setting. This means that the thermostat bulb must be heated in order to trigger the compressor. You could place a small desk lamp, high intensity type, to shine on the area of the thermostat. Actually, there are devices sold which are made to bias a furnace thermostat.* A small heater that mounts below the thermostat. ETA: * For example, if you want to keep a seldom used room warmed to just 40 degrees F, in order to keep pipes from freezing. This device will permit control at a setting lower than indicated on the dial of the thermostat. THIS!! ^^^^^^^^^ I have often used this in rooms where the thermostat (in a place(or locked so)) could not be normally adjusted. Unfortunately it only works for lowering temps - raising them requires a more obvious set up - and a messier one.
fuelair Cythraul Enfys Join Date: May 2006 Posts: 28,881	__________________ There is no problem so great that it cannot be fixed by small explosives carefully placed. Wash this space! We fight for the Lady Babylon!!!